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Post by T. Miller on Oct 21, 2006 23:28:42 GMT -5
To separate a thread from the cosplay thread over in AZ logistics, I'm setting up this thread to serve as Q & A for technical problems whether it's making a costume, fixing something around the house, whatever. Okie - here's two things I'm looking for right now. Well maybe 3... 1, how to removed enamel paint from a stove burner? A decades old pot that has functioned perfectly fine for years and years suddenly decides the paint is going to melt off along part of the burner and is now firmly adhered to the burner. I can't think of any way of removing the stuff without damaging the burner or using something insanely flammable. 2, A great way to clean upholstry? I aquired a used sofa, and the cushions all came out great from the laundry, but now the arms and back of the sofa look dingy. I tried laundry detergent and woolite carpet/upholstry, but no luck. and 3, has anyone worked with floral foam before? How crumbly is it?
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Kratos
Canonised Regular Joe
Posts: 166
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Post by Kratos on Oct 23, 2006 13:51:06 GMT -5
how to remove enamel from a stove burner: options. one-replace the burner, if it is a plug in type a new one can be purchased fairly cheap at a hardware store. two-turn the heat to high and open your windows, when the burner turns red hot take a knife and scrape off the melting paint.
a way to clean upholstry: if you have a normal upholstered couch (not leather) you can used a "Whipped" cleaning solution. to do this you take a scoop of laundry detergent and mix with equal part water and whip it togher in a mixer/bowl/blender. dab some with a rag and scrub the upholstry, to rinse use a clean rag moistened with water and wipe clean, let dry or use a fan to help it dry faster. another way to do this is with oxyclean. mix acording to instructions on container. this cleaner works miracles!
foam: i've never used floral foam (green foam) but i have used project foam (white foam). this is the same stuff as you've used for science fair experients when making the solar system. you remember my sesshomaru and naraku all had shaped spikes on them. they were made from foam cones i carved the spikes out of. it's easy to use but can be a little messy so do it outdoors. however the problem lies in this; do not paint it directly. the paint will decentegrate the foam and deform it. do not put fiberglass resin directly on it, it will melt. i'm still trying to work out a way to make a decent but durable cover for it to make new armor for sesshomaru. but it does work exceptionally well for forming.
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Post by T. Miller on Oct 24, 2006 13:25:44 GMT -5
Thanks for the tips - I'll check out the craft foam. It won't be painted on, but will have a rod or pipe driven through it to make a form (think tinkertoys here). It needs to be sturdy enough that as I move around, the rod/pipe won't jostle, make the hole bigger, and begin to slip apart. Ooor... I just had a really good idea. Stick the pipe/rod through the foam to make my form, but have a small hole drilled through the rod/pipe. Then I can push a pin through the foam and through the rod/pipe to secure it in place. Then I can just take the pin out and dis-assemble, so that I can keep this skeleton modular for travel (who really wants to travel with a 3.5 or 4 foot cylinder? ?) Need to purchase a drill....or borrow one... Hmmm.. which upholstry method would you reccomend for cleaning the whole frame? With the magnitude of that task and the prospect of waiting for it to dry, I'm seriously considering making something to cover the back and two smaller something to cover the arm. I can crochet pretty fast....... (when I'm not making a blanket for a new nugget... XD ) For the burner - thought about buying on though that's my last resort - reheating it though - why the hell didn't I think of that? Thanks!!!
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Post by UncleJager on Oct 24, 2006 13:33:09 GMT -5
Please be aware that the paint may catch fire,... again
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LEGION
Canonised Regular Joe
Posts: 189
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Post by LEGION on Oct 24, 2006 15:27:29 GMT -5
Thanks for the tips - I'll check out the craft foam. It won't be painted on, but will have a rod or pipe driven through it to make a form (think tinkertoys here). It needs to be sturdy enough that as I move around, the rod/pipe won't jostle, make the hole bigger, and begin to slip apart. Ooor... I just had a really good idea. Stick the pipe/rod through the foam to make my form, but have a small hole drilled through the rod/pipe. Then I can push a pin through the foam and through the rod/pipe to secure it in place. Then I can just take the pin out and dis-assemble, so that I can keep this skeleton modular for travel (who really wants to travel with a 3.5 or 4 foot cylinder? ?) Need to purchase a drill....or borrow one... Hmmm.. which upholstry method would you reccomend for cleaning the whole frame? With the magnitude of that task and the prospect of waiting for it to dry, I'm seriously considering making something to cover the back and two smaller something to cover the arm. I can crochet pretty fast....... (when I'm not making a blanket for a new nugget... XD ) For the burner - thought about buying on though that's my last resort - reheating it though - why the hell didn't I think of that? Thanks!!! just wanted to say Thank You for curing my insomnia.
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Post by T. Miller on Jan 29, 2007 13:03:02 GMT -5
If I cut fabric on the bias, that means it won't bunch or crinkle if I sew it along a curve, right?
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Post by UncleJager on Jan 30, 2007 15:52:57 GMT -5
Does anyone have any good suggestions for getting stickers off a guitar?
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Kratos
Canonised Regular Joe
Posts: 166
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Post by Kratos on Jan 30, 2007 23:37:06 GMT -5
would goo gone work?
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Kratos
Canonised Regular Joe
Posts: 166
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Post by Kratos on Jan 30, 2007 23:39:03 GMT -5
If I cut fabric on the bias, that means it won't bunch or crinkle if I sew it along a curve, right? as long as you pull it even and tight when you fuse the materials together.
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Post by T. Miller on Jan 31, 2007 13:37:17 GMT -5
If I cut fabric on the bias, that means it won't bunch or crinkle if I sew it along a curve, right? as long as you pull it even and tight when you fuse the materials together. (short bus moment coming...) Fuse? Like using interfacing? (/short bus moment) What I am trying to do is to cover the edges of a collar I made out of fabric adhered to foam. I can hand-sew on this thing (I think) but machine sewing is no-go. The look I'd like to edge it with is a hem edge I think - I don't know the name of the edge, but where neatly hemmed fabric folds over both the top and bottom of the edge. I was hoping that maybe it would be the best solution to "seal off" my fabric and foam sandwich that I've made. I though about a bias tape or some such but a match would be very difficult and worry that it would crinkle. That's why I was wondering about bias strips maybe. I hope I made sense? My technical terms aren't so good, and I am sorry if I am misunderstanding something, but I look forward to hearing more. PS - Goo gone should work fine on your guitar, but you may need to go over the spot with window cleaner to clean up any greasy residue from the goo gone.
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Kratos
Canonised Regular Joe
Posts: 166
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Post by Kratos on Feb 3, 2007 13:26:21 GMT -5
an interesting situation there spooks. is the foam too thick for it to pass through your machine? also if you can turn it inside out then you can machine the fabric together and then insert your foam. then its just had sewing the small opening shut at that point. but if you can't then you may just wanna try hand sewing it. and i had thought about goo gone but i wasn't sure it it would strip the top coat as well.
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Post by T. Miller on Feb 5, 2007 8:47:47 GMT -5
an interesting situation there spooks. is the foam too thick for it to pass through your machine? also if you can turn it inside out then you can machine the fabric together and then insert your foam. then its just had sewing the small opening shut at that point. but if you can't then you may just wanna try hand sewing it. and i had thought about goo gone but i wasn't sure it it would strip the top coat as well. RE: The collar - after playing around, I foudn that the machine could manage a runnign stitch, so I got the foam in there, fittted the hem strip on there, and hand stitched the bottom side of it in place. Just to be safe, I went under the edge with the hot glue gun also. I have some small complaints about the collar, but overall I'm pleased with the results of my first collar. I may have to bring the back seam higher to move the wings higher, but at that point I may as well not have a seam in the back, just a single closure at the neck. Still debating, but I think I'm going to hold this hand instead of going further with it. RE: the goo gone - It should be safe enough as it isn't very abrasive, but as with any chemical, you always want to test a blind spot first.
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Post by T. Miller on Mar 19, 2007 12:30:19 GMT -5
When you're putting a lining into a shirt or vest, along with stitching the lining along the edges of the garment (neck, armholes, along front opening) does one stitch the lining also on the side seams of the outer shell? Or is that not neccessary?
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Kratos
Canonised Regular Joe
Posts: 166
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Post by Kratos on Mar 20, 2007 21:47:26 GMT -5
i would say if the lining is secure enough, no. a lining should be pretty free moving so it can have a lil sway to it
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Post by T. Miller on Mar 21, 2007 8:02:04 GMT -5
i would say if the lining is secure enough, no. a lining should be pretty free moving so it can have a lil sway to it Fair enough. Thanks!
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